Choosing a ring from a showcase is a process of elimination. Commissioning one is the opposite: you build it up from a few decisions. Taken in the right order, each decision makes the next one simpler.

1. Start with the shape

The shape of the centre stone sets the character of the whole ring. Round is the most brilliant and the most classic. Oval and pear look larger for their weight and lengthen the finger. Emerald cuts are quieter and architectural, with long mirror-like facets. Cushion is soft and romantic. Marquise is dramatic and makes the most of every carat.

If you are unsure, notice what the person already wears. Someone who favours clean, minimal pieces often suits an emerald or a round. Someone who likes vintage pieces often loves a cushion or an oval.

2. Then the setting

  • Solitaire: one stone, nothing to distract from it. Timeless, and the easiest to wear with a wedding band.
  • Halo: a ring of small diamonds around the centre, which makes it look noticeably larger.
  • Pavé band: small diamonds along the band for sparkle from every angle.
  • Three-stone: a centre stone with two side stones, often read as past, present and future.
  • Bezel: a thin rim of metal around the stone. Very secure and very modern, good for active hands.

3. Choose the metal

18 karat gold is the usual choice for fine diamond rings: rich in colour and hard enough to hold stones securely. Yellow gold is warm and traditional, rose gold is soft and flattering on many skin tones, and white gold is plated in rhodium for a bright finish that needs refreshing every year or two. Platinum is naturally white, heavier and very durable. Every gold piece should carry a BIS hallmark stating its purity.

4. Then the stone itself

Size, colour, clarity and cut all trade against each other. Cut matters most for sparkle, so we never compromise there. Beyond that, a stone a shade warmer in colour or with tiny inclusions invisible to the eye can give you a noticeably larger diamond for the same budget. This is exactly the conversation to have with a jeweller, stone in hand.

To see what different carat weights actually look like on a hand, try our carat size guide.

5. Get the size right

A ring that is too tight gets taken off and left in a drawer. Measure at the end of the day, when fingers are at their largest, and see our sizing centre for the string method and a printable sizer. If you are planning a surprise, the proposal guide has a few discreet ways to find a size.

What to bring to your consultation

  • Screenshots or photos of rings you like, and ones you do not. Both help.
  • A rough budget band. It lets us suggest the right stone rather than the biggest one.
  • The date you need it by, if there is one. Most bespoke rings take four to six weeks from approving the design.
  • A ring that fits, or a measurement, if you have one.